ocean and surfing and water

I was one of those kids who lived at the pool in the summer. Then my folks went their separate ways and the pool days ceased. You see I was able to ride my bike there with my friends almost every day-I lost both bike and friends. One thing my folks were good at when I was younger was taking me with them on their travels. My first introduction to the ocean was Hawaii, not prime in my opinion, but still very beautiful and intoxicating. I remember the way it smells and feels-especially after getting a fresh sunburn. Being in the ocean was all I wanted to do when I was in Hawaii.

Then there came the Camen Islands-my favorite. Yes, above Hawaii. I don't know what it was, if it was the color and the calmness or the fact that I got the guts to go further out snorkeling than I did in Hawaii. Again I was sunburned, so badly that I had to take a day off from being outside because I got sick from it. My face swelled so much I couldn't open my eyes all the way.

So now I am pretty much tortured. I haven't seen the ocean for about thirteen years, my fascination has grown immensely. And now. . . I'm in love with surfing without having ever been.

that's all for now